Heritage Restaurant & Caviar Bar opened in early August, the week of the Sturgeon Moon, which is when the Algonquins believed the Great Lakes teemed with gravid fish. That’s not only auspicious, it’s audacious, because this intimate space that once housed the late, lamented Bar Marta stocks up to 16 varieties of fish eggs iced behind glass on the bar.
Other varieties of caviar are offered a la carte at different weights, generally lower prices, and significantly more noticeable salt levels, at least in the case of the wild rainbow trout roe ($15 for 15 grams).
Desserts by pastry chef Alan Krueger match the memorability of his bread work, featuring a depthlessly rich pot de creme and a Downy-soft espresso souffle—polar opposites in terms of density but kindred in their appeal.
2700 W. Chicago 773-661-9577heritage-chicago.com
