I know, anecdote isn’t evidence. Over dere by this week’s review of Chicago Ramen I may have made a reckless implication about the antiviral properties of the tsukemen broth at Chef Kenta Ikehata’s new ramen-ya.

Takeyama told me the partners have been sitting on this Lilliputian spot (located next to the best carne asada tacos on the north side) for years while getting other projects in order, and it’s something of an experimental station. There’s a tonkotsu on offer, but it’s more like the lighter Hakata Classic they serve at Wasabi. They also do a more intense shoyu here than the one at the mothership, chicken broth with a dashi built on four different kinds of dried fish, topped with sous vide pork and chicken; and also a vegetable-miso vegan “tonkotsu,” the milky-white bone broth sent up with a shot of Oatly.