Bill Walker, chef at the Kennison, has nothing against offal. He’s even open to brains as long as they’re fresh. But when Stephen Hasson of Ugo’s challenged Walker to create a dish with Rose Pork Brain in Milk Gravy, Walker struggled with fact that the product comes in a can. For one thing, its smell and taste reminded him of another canned meat—namely, cat food. “[The brains are] just off-putting in a pink paste of milk gravy in a can,” he says.
Tasting the dish proved more pleasant than Walker expected. He says, “It’s almost like chicken.”
