Vegemite, ubiquitous in Australia, its country of origin, is barely known elsewhere. Brent Balika (Margeaux Brasserie) was aware of the existence of the savory spread, which is made from leftover brewers’ yeast extract and various flavorings, but had never tried it before Christopher Thompson of Coda di Volpe challenged him to cook with it. “It’s straight umami, superintense,” he says. “Like bouillon: super intense savory.”

Compared to the more classic duck a l’orange, Balika says, duck a la Vegemite has a deeper umami flavor that “accentuates the richness and iron quality” of the meat. In the carrots, meanwhile, the Vegemite adds an “intense earthy quality that helps accentuate and play off the sweetness. Balance is the key ingredient to the success of any cuisine.”