- Myles Gebert
- The old-fashioned diner burger at Dove’s
When Dove’s Luncheonette opened last year, I was somewhat surprised to find that the alleged “luncheonette” from One Off Hospitality, located next to Big Star, has a menu that consists mainly of Mexican dishes. It wasn’t what the cassette tape of 60s soul numbers that had been distributed to local food writers had led me to expect. Mind you, One Off is the group who has a Mediterranean restaurant (Avec) that looks like a Swedish sauna, so a certain amount of cultural fusion was to be expected. But still, the one old-school comfort-food dish on the menu—chicken-fried chicken—stood out for being surrounded by pozole and tamales.
In any case, the change of the seasons will bring some evolution to the menu, Bernard says. “I’m looking forward to spring and summer. We opened at the worst possible time, with cold weather and the Blue Line closing.” I point out that they’ve been plenty full anyway, and to which he says, “People think we’re always packed. I hear them say they can’t get in, but we have 42 seats. Twenty people come in and we look full. Tell people we’re open for dinner—no one knows that because, you know, ‘luncheonette.’”
