That’s what he told me anyway, a few months ago when we talked about his second and presumably last cookbook Cooking for Good Times, which hits the market Tuesday in all its full-color glory.

“We’re not trying to show you how great of cooks we are,” he says. The book’s fundamental truth, however, comes straight out of a restaurant kitchen:

Kahan tells me he’s been cooking a lot of Japanese food up at the cabin, just because there’s not a lot of it around there. Me, I’m gonna roast some parsnips and rutabagas and serve them with persimmons and walnut-anchovy vinaigrette. Do you think Paul would come over?

MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE In a food processor, combine the walnuts, oil, anchovies, and garlic and process until smooth. Add the vinegar and lemon juice and zest and pulse two times. Taste for seasoning—if your anchovies are very salty, you won’t need any additional salt. Otherwise, add a pinch or so, to your liking. Set aside until ready to use or store in the fridge for up to 5 days.